This book was written with much guidance from C. Sharpe, MBAE, CIBTAC, CIDESCO Dip. to whom CHANGE expresses sincerest thanks.

Below is a list of all the other varying methods of hair removal and how they affect hair growth and any electrolysis treatments.

SHAVING: a popular method of hair removal which just blunts the hair at skin level and does not affect the root of the hair. Shaving can be used between electrolysis treatments without any detrimental effects. It is cheap and therefore an ideal method for other areas of the body.

EMERY PAPER: an abrasive paper, similar in effect to shaving. Some people might prefer this method on the face as it does not use a razor. Unfortunately, it is time consuming and not ideal for sensitive skins. For this reason its use is not advised for use on other areas of the body.

PLUCKING: this is not ideal on any area of the body except the eyebrows. It is a very slow process and, when used on the face, the hair will grow much faster, thicker, and the roots will become distorted which could lead to ingrown hairs. If you are already having electrolysis, plucking should definitely NOT be used between treatments, as it ruins any work being done. With the roots becoming distorted, it makes an electrolysist’s job more difficult, which can cause treatment to be slowed down.

THREADING: an Eastern procedure using entwined thread to pull hair out. It has all the same effects as plucking (which see, above).

DEPILATORY CREAMS: a reasonably cheap way of removing hair. Unfortunately, strong hair needs a longer application time which can make the skin raw and sensitive very quickly. If used repeatedly on sensitive areas, you could find yourself suddenly allergic to the product. This method is ok if your hairs are fine and your skin not so sensitive, but use it carefully.

WAXING: good for any body hair, but not advised on the face as it tends to distort the hair root and makes the hair grow stronger (see PLUCKING, above). When used on the body, the hair grows through tapered and slightly softer; body hair tends to become patchy after using this method for some time. Facial waxing should not be used between electrolysis treatments; it ruins any work previously done. The only drawback for waxing body hair is that approximately 2 - 3 weeks growth of hair is needed to be able to wax, although this may be outweighed by having at least 2 - 4 weeks before seeing regrowth. Purchased waxing strips are only really effective on finer hair growth.

SUGARING: an increasingly popular Middle Eastern method of hair removal very similar to waxing, though the application is slightly different. Evidence shows that there seem to be many more problems with ingrowing hairs with this process than with conventional waxing. Again, do not use between electrolysis treatments as sugaring wastes your time and money in exactly the same way as does waxing or plucking. They all encourage blood flow to the hair, making it grow deeper and faster (see PLUCKING, above).

BLEACHING: using a specific product purchased from chemists etc., this is useful on finer hair growth. Bleaching thick, dark hair will only make it a straw-orange colour. Bleaching will sensitize the skin if left on for too long but is a reasonably cheap way of hiding excess hair growth, especially on the arms.

HOME ELECTROLYSIS KITS: these are definitely to be avoided by everyone. They may seem a cheap alternative to expensive electrolysis, but the real price of these kits is skin damage (scarring). I have known people to sit for hours at a time in front of a mirror, in pain, trying to use this type of machine. PLEASE LEAVE WELL ALONE.

TWEEZER METHOD: this is a glorified method of plucking, using electrified tweezers. It is not permanent and will not benefit facial hair in any way. This method should not be used in between electrolysis sessions as it ruins any previous treatment (see PLUCKING, above), and money spent on the tweezer method would be better directed towards professional electrolysis.

(Living tissue is a good conductor of electricity. Hair, being made of dead cells, is a poor conductor. During both electrolysis and diathermy a small electric current is directly applied into the follicle, not the hair, using very safe, low power. It works. The tweezer method is supposed to send electricity from the exterior end of the hair, through its (poorly conducting) dead cells, down to the follicle. For this to be effective, dangerously electrical high power would be necessary. To avoid electrocution or burning, electrified tweezers employ low power which, by the time it has travelled along the hair itself to reach the follicle, is minuscule. Along its way, some of this current is also dissipated into the surrounding skin, further reducing its power. - Editor)

LASERThe newest form of hair removal, laser is less successful with light coloured hair. Whether it is a permanent method of hair removal remains to be seen and the only way to find out is to wait and see if those who people who have already had it find no hair regrowth in the years ahead. N.B. laser treatment must be carried out by, or under the guidance of a medical doctor.

ELECTRICAL EPILATION, WHAT IS IT?
Electrical epilation is the only well proven method of permanent hair removal. Though permanent, it is not an instant treatment. Regular treatments over a long period of time are required. The word electrolysis is very commonly used instead of electrical epilation, but is technically incorrect - all will be revealed.

Before each session it is necessary to let the hair grow sufficiently to allow approximately 2 mm (1/16") of each hair to protrude from the skin’s surface.

WHAT HAPPENS DURING TREATMENT? The operator will initially wipe clean the area to be treated with an antiseptic lotion. A special, fine, blunt needle is then placed into each hair follicle opening, until its tip reaches the base of the hair. A mild current is then released, creating a reaction at the end of the needle. The hair is then slid out with a pair of tweezers.  Initially, the skin is pink and a little raised but this soon goes down and, usually after a couple of days, there may be tiny pin-prick healing spots, or sometimes pustules. These all disappear within days. An after care skin lotion recommended by the operator must be used to aid healing and reduce any skin reactions. Treatments must be regular, and of reasonable duration. Because of the amount of hair to be removed, treatments should be of a least an hour each, and at least every week. The more treatment the better, but be guided by your operator.

To allow time for healing, it is best to limit treatment of the face and throat to four hours per week maximum. The usual amount in treatment of transsexualism is two hours per week. In the event of more than one electrolysis session per week, it is important that the second session does not treat exactly the same area dealt with during the first, which will yet have more healing to do, otherwise considerable permanent scarring, akin to acne pocking, is likely occur. Those who try to save time by cramming as much electrolysis as possible into a short time invariably end up with scars - presenting a worse problem than did the facial hair. Such crater-like scarring is extremely difficult to conceal or remove by expensive cosmetic surgery. If the advice given in this book is meticulously followed, there should be no scarring at all.

WHAT METHODS ARE AVAILABLE?
The oldest and least common method is galvanic electrolysis, or galvanism which involves the client holding an ‘inactive’ electrode, the needle being the ‘active’ electrode, creating a circuit through which a direct, or galvanic, current can be passed. This causes a chemical reaction in the moist tissues around the hair bulb, chemically destroying the growth areas of the follicle. This method is very slow, though effective on deep, strong and sparse hair growth.

The most widely used method of electrical epilation is short wave diathermy. It utilises a high frequency current causing friction in the tissues around the needle. This in turn creates heat, which cauterises and coagulates the tissues in the immediate vicinity of the needle. This method has been so popular because of its speed and capability of dealing with all types of hair, and hair growths.

The newest process available is the Blend method which came over from America more than ten years ago and is becoming popular. It is a blend of galvanism and short wave diathermy, combining the speed of diathermy with the efficiency of galvanism. An electrode, held by the client, produces the circuit necessary for the galvanic component. The Blend method is slower than diathermy, but can treat thick, curly hair very well.

Top electrolysists still have diverse views about which method is the best. Both are highly suitable for extensive facial work. Although you will have a far larger area treated in one hour of diathermy than with the Blend method, a hair treated with the Blend method will need less treatment overall.

Another practice some people might come across is the Sylvia Lewis Method. This is just short wave diathermy using angled, insulated needles to inhibit skin reaction.

Whichever of these processes is used, every hair will need more than one treatment, the eventual result being to permanently cauterize (seal off) the blood supply to its root (see diagram above), preventing regrowth.

HOW DO YOU FIND A QUALIFIED ELECTROLYSIST?
The British Association of Electrolysists and the Institute of Electrolysis produce lists of highly qualified operators able and willing to treat people born transsexual. The lists also show whether the operator offers the Blend method, or even a home visiting service. The addresses of these organisations are:

The British Association of Electrolysists
18 Stokes End, Haddenham, Bucks., HP7 8DX.

The Institute of Electrolysis
251 Seymour Grove, Manchester, M16 0DS.

APPROACHING AN ELECTROLYSIST
When telephoning for an initial appointment, make sure you speak to the electrolysist who has advertised. Always book an initial consultation, which should always be free. This is the opportunity for you to discuss any questions about the treatment you will have.
 

ELECTROLYSISTS’ QUALIFICATIONS

IBTAC (Confederation of International Beauty Therapy And Cosmetology): this is a very high standard of beauty therapy and electrolysis qualification.

BABTAC (British Association of Beauty Therapy And Cosmetology): a very large membership association. One can have nearly any reasonably high standard qualification to join, or can also join as a specialist member, e.g., electrolysist. Membership automatically includes treatment insurance.

MBAE (Member of British Association of Electrolysists): a very high standard of electrolysis qualification; membership is only via a strict theory and practical exam.

DRE (Diploma of Remedial Electrolysis): the qualification offered by the Institute of Electrolysists. This again is of very high standard, qualification being only via a strict theory and practical exam.

IHBC (Independent Health and Beauty Council): an examination and membership qualification of reasonably high standard.

ITEC (International Therapy Examination Council): a beauty therapy and electrolysis exam of reasonably high standard.

IA (International Aesthieticiennes): an independent examining body for the beauty industry, of reasonably high standard.

C&G (City and Guilds of London Institute): exam board of very high standard.

CIDESCO Dip. (Le Comite International D’esthetiques et de Cosmetology): a truly international examination/membership board for beauty therapy and electrolysis. This diploma qualification shows a very high standard and quality of therapist/electrolysist.

IPTI (Independent Professional Therapists International): an independent membership association of reasonably high standard.
One may also come across other qualifications which could pertain to other specialist areas, eg. reflexology, aromatherapy, cosmetic camouflage, massage, etc.

HOW CAN I TELL IF I AM BEING TREATED PROPERLY?
Depending on the thickness and strength of hair growth quite a number of sessions are necessary before a lasting, visible result is apparent. During this time treatment should still be having a good effect. This is perfectly normal.

As the needle enters each hair follicle, there should not be any burning. Any little frying noises at that stage might suggest the practitioner is not using a good technique. However, an electrolysist may occasionally insert a live needle deliberately, particularly if a hair has a distorted root. If frying effects are observed a great deal during needle insertion, then you are paying for expensive scarring and plucking. To the annoyance of qualified practitioners, anyone can claim to be an electrolysist. Use a bona fide practitioner.

You will normally feel a burning sensation once the needle is in each follicle, whilst it is actually being treated. This can range from mild to very painful and is usually worse around the mouth and centre-line of the throat. Relax!

Some hairs may be ingrown, especially if there has been any previous plucking. Having lost their way, ingrown hairs try to grow into, or in a tangle beneath, the skin. They tend to cause itching and are generally visible as a raised spot or dark line and are extracted like a splinter which can be uncomfortable and may cause slight bleeding.

Having been treated, each hair is removed using tweezers. If its treatment has been successful, removal should rarely feel as if the hair is being plucked. A small resistance sometimes occurs but not with every hair. If every hair feels like it is being plucked, tell the electrolysist who can then adjust the machine otherwise the treatment will not work properly.

A good practitioner will want you to feel comfortable, will not treat you roughly nor expect you to assume uncomfortable positions for prolonged periods, and will be hygienic and reliable (as should the client be).

Because facial electrolysis can take several years to complete, mutual respect and good rapport between practitioner and client are important; fresh breath helps. The degree of pain, and healing time, can sometimes depend on psychological, as well as physical, factors. If you are not happy with an electrolysist, or an electrolysist is not happy with you, pain and healing time can deteriorate.

Finally, electrolysis is not electrology. Electrologists are scientists who are unlikely to have any connection with hair removal. A person who practices electrical depilation (electrolysis or diathermy) is an electrolysist.

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